Day Five and Six - a day late

After the bad weather and slightly ramshackle nature of VT, Plovdiv has been a welcome change. As Bulgaria's 'second largest' city, it really has all the good bits of being a larger center without all the added hassle of being the major commercial and tourism hub - in fact for such a beautiful and historical city I have been surprised by the lack of tourists.

I left VT on Sunday with the weather clearing and not being sure if I should stay for an extra day, go to Varna straight away or go to Plovdiv. I am pleased to say the choice to go to Plovdiv was the right one and so far this city has been my favourite place in Bulgaria. Plovdiv is Bulgaria's oldest city and as a result has some amazing ruins, which (owing to the previously mentioned lack of health and safety) you can climb all over and really explore.

The bus from VT was less of a bus and more a van - I was a bit dubious about it to begin with but once I had seen/experienced the roads of the Shipska Pass I was quite glad to be in a van. Essentially there is a spine of mountains which run east to west through the middle of Bulgaria and these, combined with the poor quality of the roads here, made the trip from VT to Plovdiv slow, beautiful and hair-raising. (At one point, three large haulage trucks drove past us in the opposite direction - I wondered how a) they were fitting on the road, b) they were managing to get round the tight corners and c) who would be crazy enough to drive a truck like that on these roads.) At the top of the pass, continuing in the great Bulgarian tradition of large, austere, communist themed statues, was a massive statue of two fists holding a flame torch each (a bit like the one the statue of liberty holds) AND, as if this in the middle of nowhere wasn't enough, higher up on the hill was some type of flying-saucer design look-out, complete with star emblazoned tower - all a little weird. The view of the Thracian Plain was amazing from the top and once back down on the flat the bus drove past field after field of sunflowers and the odd donkey drawn cart.

So Plovdiv (after the agony of walking from the bus to the hostel with my bag) is great. I said before it is Bulgaria's second largest city but, due to the fact that there isn't really a census and there are about four ways that the data is collected, nobody really knows which city is the second largest - typical! Being such a old city there are a number of different layers of history, from the Roman stadium and theatre to the 17th and 18th century houses to the Thracian fortress ruins near the hostel. Added to this history is the much more relaxed and dare I say fashion conscious attitude of the people here - the main shopping area is pedestrianised and lined with outdoor cafes and designer shops (something that you don't really see in Sofia).

I spent my first evening in the city having a little wander and having salad (again) for dinner - am still trying to find a place that does the world famous Bulgarian bean soup... it seems beans are generally out of season? Later I just sat and chatted with the people in the hostel - I am staying (until I check out in a few minutes) in the most relaxed hostel right in the heart of the old town... it is excellent except for the worst shower set up I have ever seen in my life... Two toilet cubicles and one just has a tap adaptor and a shower head one the wall - you just stand in the toilet cubicle and shower!!!!! Bizarre! Anyway the views are amazing and it is so close to everything I don't think it is really worth dwelling on this one thing too long.

Yesterday was really the start of my 'tourist' activity - Plovdiv is known as a museum city not only because it is so old but also because of all the museums. I had a look in the Ethnographic museum, which is housed in a beautiful 18th century painted house - lots of ethnic costumes and pre-industrialised machinery. (All the information was in Bulgarian so I can regale you with all the great facts I picked up!) The rest of the day was spent wandering the old town (lots of steps!!), climbing over the ruins and writing postcards (watch this space - I sent them non-priority which may mean they will never get to you. Sorry!)

Just to reassure that I am keeping my promise regarding running - I just got back from not just 'climbing' the Hill of the Liberators (a whole hill given over to Russian love - it commemorates the liberating of the city by the Russians in the 1870s) but running up the hill and then running back down (after I had recovered from feeling like I was about to die). I got some funny looks from the staff at the hostel when I said I was going to do it - I think they were quite impressed when I got back.

Tonight I am going to catch the overnight bus/train to Varna for a bit of reflectivity on the beach - the bad weather has meant any chance of any colour (I know - don't laugh) has gone. Will write soon with details of lying on the beach and dancing into the wee small hours!

Rose x